How to Make Nutella Hot Chocolate

Do you want a warming and comforting winter treat tasting of chocolate and hazelnuts? This article will teach you how to melt some delicious Nutella into hot milk.

Ingredients

1. Nutella
2. 1 cup (240 milliliters) of milk
3. Toppings (whipped cream, marshmallows, peppermint shavings, flake etc.) (Optional)

Steps

1

Gather all ingredients and materials. The ingredients are listed at the top of the articles, materials are at the bottom.

2

Pour about 1/4 cup of milk into a saucepan.

3

Add about 2 spoonfuls of Nutella. If you like your hot chocolate sweet, then you may add some more, and if you don't like it too sweet, then you can use less.

4

Put the stove on medium-low heat. Put the saucepan on the stove.

5

Whisk the milk and Nutella together in the saucepan until it's blended.

 6

Slowly pour the rest of the milk (3/4 cup) into the saucepan. Stir until it becomes hot and frothy.

7

Turn off the stove. Carefully pour the mixture into a cup or mug.

8

You're done! You can add anything into the chocolate and hazelnut drink, such as marshmallows, whipped cream, cinnamon, etc. Enjoy your sweet hazelnut treat!

Tips

• Add more milk for a thinner drink or add less milk for a thicker drink.
• If you do not have Nutella, Chocolate Breakfast Essentials are a good substitute, add a bit more milk for better taste to it.
• You can use any of your favorite ingredients to put in your hot chocolate, such as marshmallows, chocolate syrup, whipped cream, cinnamon, etc!

Warnings

• Wait for it to cool off so you don't burn your tongue.
• Be careful with the stove.

Things You'll Need

1. A saucepan
2. Spoon
3. Measuring cup
4. Whisk
5. Mug or cup
6. (Optional) Toppings, such as cinnamon, marshmallow etc.

How to Build a Fire

Lighting a fire is only half the battle. The way you build a fire - that is, how you arrange the wood - can affect how long the fire will last and the amount of heat it'll give off during that time. This article will provide an overview of how to build a fire in any setting.

Part 1:Gathering What You Need

1
Get an ignition source. The most obvious choice is a lighter or matches, but if you're in a pinch, try one of these ideas:

• How to Create Fire With a Magnifying Glass
• How to Light Wet Matches (or if you're proactive, Make Waterproof Matches)
• How to Identify Flint so you can Start a Fire With Magnesium and Flint
• How to Start a Fire with Sticks
• How to Make Fire Without Matches or a Lighter

2
Gather tinder. Tinder catches the initial spark from the ignition source and transfers it to the kindling. If the kindling is damp or wet, the tinder must burn long enough to dry out the kindling.

• You can turn dry sticks and pieces of bark into powdery tinder with a knife.
• Other sources of tinder include:
• dead dry plants and grasses
• wax
• lint
• birch bark
• charcloth
• moss
• wood shavings
• paper
• pine pitch
• dry needles from coniferous trees
• fire sticks
• dry leaves
• fire starters

3
Gather kindling. Kindling needs a large surface to volume ratio (about 1/8" to 1/2" diameter) and more bulk than tinder so it can ignite easily, produce sustained concentrated heat and flame, and light the main fuel source.

• Good sources: dry twigs and wood pieces, cardboard, large pieces of wood cut into small pieces, and fuzz sticks (sticks with shavings cut into them, but still attached).
• If you need to split small pieces of wood into smaller pieces for kindling, try these methods:
• Hold the wood you want to split parallel to the axe, with the top of the stick touching the axe blade. Both your hands are near the bottom of the axe handle: one holding the ax, and the other holding the stick. With the stick touching the axe blade where you want it to split, swing both the stick and the axe together to hit the chopping block. When the axe splits the stick, give it a twist to finish splitting the stick into two pieces.
• To split a small piece of wood, hold the stick upright, either by sticking into the ground or holding it with your feet. Take a rock a little bigger than your fist, and smack the end of the stick with the rock until a crack has been created. Peel the layers back with your fingers to split the wood into smaller pieces.

4
Gather logs or other bulky fuel sources. Good fuels for sustained burning include dry wood that is 1" to 5" (2.5 cm to 12.5 cm) in diameter, twisted dry grasses, peat, dried animal dung and coal. Gather more fuel than you think you'll need, especially if you're going to sleep by the fire.

• Green or wet fuel can be used, but only once the fire is established because it will burn more slowly than dry fuel.

• Softwoods/conifers/evergreens have leaves in the shape of needles. They burn quickly and very hot, and they also contain flammable resins which burn hotter and help with starting a fire. Because of this, they're often used for kindling as well, since they're easier to ignite than hardwoods. You will know if you are using a wood with resin because it crackles and pops while burning.
• Hardwoods have broad flat leaves and they don't catch fire as easily as softwoods. Once they do, however, they burn for a longer period of time and give off more heat. It may be necessary to know How to Split Hardwood Firewood or How to Split Gnarly Firewood
• You can also Make Logs from Newspapers.

Part 2:Building the Actual Fire

1
Clear a circular area about 4 feet (1.2 m) in diameter. Build a ring of rocks or dig a fire pit that's several inches deep using a shovel or hand trowel. Constructing a ring of stones will insulate the fire. Building a firewall with logs or rocks will reflect the fire's heat, especially if you'll only be on one side of the fire (because otherwise the heat sent off in the other direction is wasted).

• If the ground is wet or covered with snow, build a platform out of green logs and cover them with a layer of earth or stones.

2
Pile kindling loosely in your fire ring or fire pit. You want your kindling close enough to ignite but spaced enough for good air circulation.

• Place your tinder on the pile of kindling. Light the fire with your ignition source and gradually add more kindling.
• Slowly blow air on the igniting fire to build heat and intensity.

3
Add firewood starting with the smallest sized pieces and working your way up toward large pieces. The arrangement you choose will determine the fire's longevity, how fast it burns, and how long your wood lasts.

• Build a tepee. Arrange the tinder and a few sticks of kindling in the shape of a cone, and light them at the center. The outside logs will fall inward and feed the fire. This is the most effective of all fire arrangements.
• Since a flame is hottest at the tip of the fire (where the oxygen combusts into fire to create carbon dioxide) the top of the teepee is where the most intense heat will be, so if a stick is thicker at one end, be sure to place the thicker end at the top of the tepee.
• Because of the tepee arrangement, wet wood and green wood will burn well. However, since very intense heat is generated by the arrangement, the fire burns through wood rather quickly.[1]
• Construct a log cabin. Stack layers in alternating directions to form 4 walls in the shape of a square. Leave enough room for a tepee structure in the center, and make sure that air can circulate between the logs in your "cabin" walls.
• The "chimney effect" will suck air in through the bottom and let it exit through top as strong flame. If the fire seems like its not getting enough oxygen, dig small holes under the walls to allow for better air flow, or blow on the fire to reach optimal burning temperature.
• This arrangement is best for cooking food, because the square shape creates uniform heat. You can place food on top of the stack for a while if you use larger, green pieces of wood at the top.
• Erect a pyramid. Place 2 small logs or branches on the ground so that they're parallel to each other. Then, put a solid layer of small logs or branches on top of them in a perpendicular direction.
• Add 3 or 4 more layers, each time alternating the direction, and each layer being smaller than the one before.
• Light the top of the pyramid on fire, and the flame will naturally travel down toward the base.
• Build a lean-to. Push a green stick into the ground at a 30-degree angle with its tip pointing in the direction of the wind. Put tinder underneath and lean sticks of kindling against the main stick. Light the tinder and add more kindling as needed.
• Dig a cross ditch. Scratch a cross in the ground that's 12" (30 cm) in diameter. Make it 3" (7.5 cm) deep, and place a big wad of tinder in the middle. Build a pyramid out of kindling over the tinder. The ditch will allow air to flow through and feed the fire.
• Create a star. With this arrangement, you can push the logs inward to increase heat, and pull them out to decrease heat. This method is particularly helpful if you're trying to conserve fuel.[1]

4

Finished.

Tips

• You can shrink a fire to burn the remainder of its wood later by moving the wood apart.
• If you want to move the fuel around in the fire, dunk the end of a long sturdy stick into a bucket of water (or just use a "green" stick) as a "poker" to move things around. Sometimes, moving logs around may greatly improve the fire.
• To avoid an unwanted second fire, protect logs in the vicinity of your fire that you want to burn later from catching fire from errant sparks and embers by laying them separate from one another rather than stacking them.
• In an emergency you can keep embers burning overnight or longer so that you can rekindle them later. Rake the embers and ash together into a pile. The loose ash will reduce access to oxygen but retain heat well. The embers will stay at a high temperature and burn slowly throughout the night.
• If you are going to be at a campsite or other area for multiple days, store some fuel in a dry area just in case it rains.
• Look for dry branches on the ground when you're selecting kindling or fuel. Living branches from trees will have too much moisture in them.
• Keep a pair of water-filled buckets near before starting your fire. If the fire goes out of control, then you will have something nearby to put it out. If there is little water in your area, fill the buckets with sand or soil instead. For larger fires, prepare more buckets.
• Cooking over an open fire is fun, but very inefficient. A camping stove controls airflow and cooks food more effectively.
• Use a small branch without bark as an intermediate between your tinder and kindling.
• To help start your fire use birch bark off of the tree. Birch bark lights very easily if it is dry. It also helps make a fire bigger if you put some big pieces in.

Warnings

• Don't move firewood from place to place. Invasive species, including insects and larvae, can be carried on the wood to a new location. If firewood has been moved from another area, it should all be burned and not left behind.
• Avoid using stones from in or near water to line your fire pit. Rocks store water inside their structures and if rapidly heated they can crack and explode.
• Never build a fire underneath a tree or low hanging tree branches.
• To avoid your fire from reappearing after you have finished, make sure that the entire fire has been extinguished before leaving the site.
• Before starting the fire, make sure that you are allowed to make one. Most campsites and some area governments may allow gas or liquid-fueled stoves only - or no fires at all - depending on how hot and dry a particular day is. Sometimes fires are not allowed during the day.
• Avoid building a fire too close to tents and sleeping areas.
• Never leave a fire burning unsupervised. Poke the burning items away from each other so they cool, and soak the fire area with water to cool and smother them. An unattended fire could inadvertently start a disastrous wildfire.
• Never put a fire next to a tree or a hammock

How to Make Glitter Pumps

Why wear regular-looking pumps when you can jazz them up to create a pair of glitter pumps that would make Dorothy from Oz proud? However, these babies aren't going to be marching down the Yellow Brick Road. These big girl pumps are going to help you work it out on the dance floor or at a special event. You don’t need to be crafty to create them, merely have a love of all things beautiful and sparkly!

Steps

1
Select a pair of shoes. Pass on using the pair of Chanels for this project––once you've messed with these shoes, they'll be glittered for life. Instead, use a pair of pumps from a second hand or thrift store, or perhaps an old pair in your closet that still has plenty of sole lives to go. Check the material of the shoe, though––leather and patent leather will usually work well. However, suede and similar textures can be difficult for the glue and glitter to adhere to. Fabric outers might work provided the glue used is appropriate for this purpose.

• When selecting the shoes, be discerning. Will that pair really look glitterific or just plain tacky? The style of the shoe is an important factor in the final outcome.
• Remove any stains, stickiness, stickers, etc. before proceeding––the shoe surface should be as clean as possible, and completely dry.

2
Gather your supplies. The glitter is clearly the most important part of this project, so invest your energy in ensuring what you choose is the right size and color. Not all glitter types are made equal––look for the more substantial, larger glitter with lots of sparkles and suitable for use on items that flex, like fabric. In terms of color, you could choose a single color, an already mixed rainbow color, or perhaps bands of different matching colors. When choosing the color, be sure to consider your existing outfits and how the shoes will match to them. After the glitter, the most important supply is the glue––be sure to check it will be suitable for the shoe material and the glitter. Modge Podge is a fairly standard glue that should work well for this project.

• There are many different kinds of glitter out there and different grain/particle sizes. Each one gives it's own unique effect. Some is very coarse having large particles which will give a very bold sparkly effect, while using a fine glitter which has smaller particle size, gives a more subtle effect. If you don't like the effects of coarse glitter in the craft stores or you can't find your perfect color look into body/make-up glitter in the cosmetic section or beauty supply store. This has a similar sparkle effect to fine sugar. Glitter also comes in many countless shapes as well including microbeads and strand/fiber shapes as well.
• Do you want to add anything else, such as charms, diamantes or bows? Don't overdo it, though––the glitter is already a star on its own and additions beyond it could be tacky.
• Other useful tools could include a cup or plastic container for mixing the Modge Podge and a new paintbrush for adding the glitter with. The Modge Podge can be mixed using plastic spoons or bamboo skewers.

3
Set up the workspace. Although lots of fun, this is a messy craft, so be sure to spread out plenty of newspaper, sheet or similar cover over the work surface. If working inside, a tabletop is ideal; if working outside, try the garage floor or a bench, or simply sit outside somewhere comfortable. Because glitter tends to go everywhere, don't go outside if it's windy and it's still important to lay down newspaper to avoid clogging up plants with glitter. Any surface chosen needs to be flat.

4
Prepare the shoes. Glitter should only end up where it's wanted. To this end, use masking tape to cover the sole and tip of the heel completely. Do this in a strip-by-strip way until all of the sole is covered and snip off any pieces that fold onto the shoe itself.

• If the heels come with laces, bows or any other external elements, remove these temporarily to avoid glittering them too.

5
Make up the Modge Podge in the cup. It is suggested to make up approximately 1/4 cup of Modge Podge to begin with. Add as much glitter as you think appropriate––the more added, the more that ends up on the shoe. Mix everything together well; this should take a few minutes.

6
Dip the paintbrush into the Modge Podge/glitter mixture. As with painting, a little goes a long way, so squeeze off any excess before painting. Brush over the first shoe and down the heel in an even layer. Although it brushes on white, don't worry––it will clear quickly. Wipe off any lumps or excess amounts and simply paint back over again. Most of all, aim for an even coat of glitter mix. Set aside to dry.

7
Repeat with the second shoe.

8
When dried, paint a new layer over the first layer for each shoe. You might need to add another layer or two, depending on how the glitter looks to you––judge it as you go.

• While the second layer is still wet, sprinkle additional glitter over the top to enhance the glitter effect––while this is optional, it can really bring out the 3-D element of the glitter and it definitely speeds up the glittering process. Obviously, a lot of the glitter will fall off while doing this, so stick to the covered workspace area. It's enough when you're happy with the effect.
• While still wet, add any other decorative effects you've decided on. If they don't adhere, apply them with a hot glue gun. Remember, though, it's easy to overdo the effect when the glitter is already the star performer.

9
Allow the shoes to dry completely overnight. Choose a well ventilated, cool area to leave the shoes. Keep them out of reach of children, pets and anyone likely to pick them up and put them somewhere else.

10
When fully dry the next day, seal the glitter. Apply a final coat of Modge Podge without glitter mixed in. This will seal both the layer underneath and any added glitter. Again, the Modge Podge will brush on white but soon turn clear. As before, use even strokes and a totally clean paintbrush.

11
Remove the tape from the bottom. Your glitter pumps are finished!

12
Finished.

Tips

• Stuff crumpled newspapers inside the shoes to avoid getting glitter inside them.
• For a twist on the usual complete covering, consider adding a design with different colored glitter using a stencil. You'll need to protect the rest of the shoe when doing this––either cover entirely with the stencil or use Vaseline or masking tape on the areas of the shoe you don't want glitter and Modge Podge mix added to. You can also carefully wipe around the edge of a stencil once it's done and still wet.
• If you don't want to cover the whole shoe, it's okay to add glitter to only a portion of your shoes, such as the soles, heels or the back.
• Use the same method to match your handbag to your shoes for a complete glittery effect.
• If you're feeling really creative, you can use more than one color of glitter.
• Any kind of shoe can be glittered, but pumps are usually easiest. If applying glitter to sandals, sling-backs, etc., cover up as much of the shoe you don't want glittered as possible.
• It's tough to apply glitter on flat sandal's toe straps; craft at your own risk.
• The entire shoe doesn't have to be glittered in one solid color. Try glittering different sections on a same shoe or the heels one color and the rest of the shoe a different color. You might want to glitter a different design within the glitter. Whenever glittering 2 colors let the first color dry completely before adding the next color to avoid disturbing the first design or having glitter colors mixing with each other.
• If you don't have Mod Podge, mix liquid white glue with water in a 1:1 ratio.

Warnings

• Modge Podge and white glue are not waterproof! If you want to wear these shoes where there's any chance of water or rain, make sure you seal them with an acrylic sealer.
• Make sure shoes are completely dry before moving on to the next step. If you add more Modge Podge to wet shoes they could warp the glitter and make a mess.
• When making these shoes, declare a pet/child free zone. Errant pet hairs or little messy hands may derail your goal of shoe glitter perfection. Don’t choose a spot that your cat likes to jump up on or where your child can reach.

How to Play Baseball

Baseball is one of America's most beloved and iconic sports. Read these steps to learn how the game is played, and how to play it yourself.

Part 1:Basics and Setup

1
Understand the basic concepts of the game. Baseball is a team sport played on a special field over the course of several periods of play, called innings. Each inning is further divided into two parts, the “top” and the “bottom,” during which one team tries to score points while the other team defends the field. Points are scored by hitting a thrown ball (the baseball) with a bat, and then running around the four bases and returning to home plate (the plate you bat from). If the runner is tagged with the baseball by the defensive team before completing the run, the runner is out. After three outs, the inning moves forward and the teams switch places.

• College and professional baseball games are played over nine innings. Less intense levels of competition usually feature six or seven.
• The entire defensive team is always on the field. Offensive players try to hit the ball one at a time, so to start with there's only one offensive player on the field. As play progresses, up to four offensive players may end up on the field, but only one batter is up at any given time. The other three players are simply waiting in safe spots to complete their runs and score points.
• There are three safe spots for runners, one at each corner of the running area, called bases. The bases must be visited in order to score a point; a runner can also choose to stop on a base and wait until the next play to continue running to the next. Bases are explained in greater detail below.

2
Get familiar with the infield. The baseball field (sometimes called the “baseball diamond”) is a specially-designed field composed of two basic parts: the infield and the outfield. The infield is the center of action. It's defined by four rugged pads set in the ground, called bases, at equal points from each other, forming a square diamond shape. The path from each base to the next is made of dirt, rather than grass. Inside the diamond is a grassy area, and near the middle of that is a low dirt mound with another plate on it called the pitcher's mound.

• The batter (offensive player) stands at one base, called home plate, and waits for the ball to be pitched from the pitcher's mound so they can try to hit it with the bat. There is a painted rectangle on either side of home plate called a “batter's box” that defines where batters are allowed to stand. Another painted box behind home plate defines where the catcher crouches to catch the ball if the batter misses it.
• While the other bases are four-sided and typically made of canvas, home plate is five-sided and made of rubber, to distinguish it. There is also usually a tall fence cupped around home plate to prevent stray balls from hitting the audience behind.
• Bases are numbered counterclockwise from home plate: first, second, and third. Second base is on a direct line from home plate through the pitcher's mound.
• A baseball that's hit and lands to the left of third base or the right of first base (as seen from home plate) is considered a “foul ball,” which invalidates the play. Foul lines are usually painted on the field to show where the border is.
• There are regulation distances that define a proper baseball infield. Each base is 90 feet (27.4 m) apart from the next. The pitcher's mound is 60.5 feet (18.4 m) from home plate.

3
Get familiar with the outfield. Past the dirt border that defines the infield is a large swath of green turf called the outfield. The foul lines continue on through the outfield, but otherwise, the space is open and undefined by structures or lines. There are a few defensive players in the outfield – the left, center, and right fielders – who try to catch and/or return long-distance hits. The outfield bulges out in the center, behind second base. The outer edge of the field is called the “fence.”

• Unlike the infield, there's no strict rule regarding the size of a baseball outfield. American professional baseball fields have home plate-to-center field fence distances ranging from 390 feet (118.9 m) to 435 feet (132.6 m).

4
Learn the roles of the teams. Each team is composed of 25 players, but only 9 players are on the field at one time, all of whom have specific defensive positions on the field. During offensive play, all players act as batters, taking turns trying to hit the ball. Once the ball has been hit, the batter can begin to run from home plate around each of the bases in a counterclockwise order, to complete a run back to home plate and score a point. The defensive team tries to recover the ball and tag the batter with it, ending the play. The 9 defensive roles are as follows:

• The pitcher pitches the baseball towards the batter. The ball has to be pitched at a certain level and straight over home plate to be considered fair, but a good pitcher can still make it very tricky to hit.
• The catcher crouches behind home plate with heavy protective gear and a special mitt, and catches the ball when the batter doesn't hit it. The catcher can also pick up and throw a ball in play, if it lands close by.
• The first baseman guards first base. They must be very good at catching the ball; if the first baseman manages to get a hold of the ball before the batter has made it to first base, it automatically is called an out.
• The second baseman guards the area between first and second base. In addition to tagging runners out at second base, the second baseman also helps catch ground balls before they roll into the outfield.
• The shortstop stands between second and third base and returns balls to any of the basemen to help get an out. Shortstops see a lot of action in a typical game – more than any other defensive position - as most right-handed batters tend to send the ball into the shortstop's area.
• The third baseman closely guards third base, and must also have an exceptionally strong throwing arm to send balls quickly to first base, all the way across the diamond. This is because (as with the shortstop) many right-handed batters send the ball straight towards third base when they hit it.
• The outfielders are three players who guard a different section of the outfield – left, center, and right, as previously described. Their job is to catch high and long balls and prevent the batting team from scoring easy runs by simply hitting the ball hard.
• All defensive players are allowed to use a large leather mitt on one hand to help them catch the ball. The catcher's mitt is even bigger and thicker.

5
Understand the role of umpires. The umpire is a member of the field not affiliated with either team, and sworn to impartiality. It's the umpire's job to watch closely and announce the result of each play. There are typically a few umpires at most games: one at home plate, and one at each of the other three bases. Some games also place two umpires in the outfield. The umpire at home plate typically calls the start of the game.

• Harassing or intentionally touching an umpire can result in severe penalties, and is to be avoided at all costs. Whether or not you agree, the umpire's word is final.

6
Learn about outs. Only offensive team members can get an out. Once a player is out, they are removed from play, and from the batting rotation, for the rest of the inning. Once three players are out, the defensive and offensive teams switch. There are several ways to get an out. The commonly seen ones are described below.

• If a defensive player catches the batter's ball before it hits the ground, the batter is automatically out no matter what else is happening, and even if the ball was caught in foul territory. This is called a “flyout.”
• If a defensive player touches a runner with the ball (or a glove holding the ball) while the runner isn't standing on a base, the runner is out. The ball must be held in the defensive player's hand; beaning the runner with a throw is unacceptable. This is called a “tag out.”
• If a batter passes on a chance to hit a fair ball (one that wasn't too high, low, or close to the batter's body), or if a batter swings and misses, he is given a strike. Three strikes result in an out, called a “strikeout.”
• On first base only, if a fielder touches the base while holding the ball before the runner can reach it, they are out. This is called a “ground out.”
• If a runner is standing on a base and has to run forward to make room for the next runner (as only one runner can be on a base at a given time), they can receive a “force out” if a fielder at the next base touches the base while holding the ball.

7
Learn about strikes, balls, and fouls. While at bat, one of four things can happen each pitch: a strike, a ball, a fair ball, or a foul ball. These terms sound confusing because they seem to overlap, but they're actually fairly simple to learn:

• A strike is an indication that the batter either could have swung at the ball and didn't, or swung at the ball and missed. Foul balls can result in strikes as well. After three strikes, the batter is out and the next batter steps up to the plate (until three outs are reached).
• A ball happens when the pitcher pitches a ball that's too far outside the hitting area to be considered hittable by the batter. After four balls, the batter “walks,” which is a free advancement to first base. Batters will occasionally try to crowd the plate and earn a walk rather than hit the ball.
• A fair ball is a ball that the batter hits which lands between the foul lines, allowing the batter to run for first base. A fair ball is what batters want, most of the time.
• A foul ball is a ball that the batter hits which lands outside the foul lines. Unless it's caught and turned into a flyout, a foul ball just counts as a strike; however, in most cases, players can't get more than two strikes as the result of hitting a foul ball. Additional foul balls aren't counted.

Part 2:Playing the Game

1
Set up the field. Each defensive player takes a position on the field. All four infielders - first baseman, second baseman, shortstop, and third basemen - position themselves strategically in their areas and often adjust that position according to many factors, including the batter's tendency to hit the ball one way or the other, and the situation in the game. Outfielders, too, stand closer or farther away from home plate, more toward left or more toward right, depending on all sorts of variables, including: each batter's propensities, in-game strategy, the pitcher's strengths and weaknesses, the particular dimensions of the field of play (each outfield is different) and the weather (especially wind direction, which can greatly effect the flight of the ball). All eight defensive players (besides the catcher) must be in "fair territory" (between the foul lines) as each pitch is thrown but nothing in the rules obliges any defensive player to keep to a certain area, except the pitcher (who must have one foot in contact with the rubber when he pitches the ball) and the catcher (who must be in the catcher's box behind home plate). The batter stands in either the left (right-handed) or right (left-handed) batting box on one side of home plate. The umpire briefly checks to verify that all nine defensive players are on the field of play and the batter is in the box, then shouts “play ball” to begin the game.

2
Pitch, swing, and hit the ball. The pitcher will attempt to throw balls that are difficult to hit, while still remaining inside the “strike zone” where the batter is expected to try to hit them. The batter does their best to quickly judge whether or not the ball is safe to hit, and then swings at it. If the batter connects and the ball doesn't cross the foul lines, it's in play.

• Pitchers often use fastballs, curveballs, changeups, and sliders to confound batters. The fastball is what it sounds like – very fast – as is the curveball. A changeup involves the pitcher pretending to throw a fastball but actually throwing a much slower pitch, confusing the batter's sense of timing. A slider is a difficult-to-throw ball that combines most of a fastball's speed with a curveball's lateral movement.

3
Run the bases. While the ball is moving across the field, either through the air or along the ground, the batter (who is now called the “runner” or “baserunner”) drops the bat and runs as fast as possible towards first base. As long as the runner doesn't get a flyout, tag out, or ground out, they can stop at first base, or keep going until it's no longer safe. In the meantime, the fielders work to collect the ball and return it to the runner's position to get them out.

• Fielders are allowed to throw the ball to each other or run with the ball in order to get it close enough to the runner to get an out. Runners aren't allowed to touch the ball on their own.
• A runner who isn't in danger of being forced or grounded out can sometimes avoid being tagged out at a base by sliding underneath the baseman and trying to touch the base before the ball touches them. As long as even one fingertip or toe is touching the base before the runner is tagged, they are safe.

4
Steal bases. In most instances, the runner won't be able to complete an entire circuit of the bases on a single play, so they must stop at a base and wait for the next batter to step up to the plate. However, at any time, the runner may attempt to “steal” the next base by running to it before the pitcher realizes what's happening. Since the pitcher is usually the best thrower on the team, stealing a base is very dangerous: the pitcher can turn and throw the ball to a baseman instead of the batter, allowing an easy tag out.

• The basemen can also pass the ball to one another, trapping the runner between two bases until they make a desperate (and usually futile) attempt to slide into one of them. Runners can't leave the line between the two bases, either: there's no running off into the outfield and then circling back around, for example.
• Runners are safe while on bases, but they aren't required to stay on a base. Most runners prepare for a possible steal by scooting out a little ways from their current base, but not far enough that they can't scramble back to it if they have to.

5
Load bases. Only one runner is allowed on each base at any time – this is where the force out rule comes from. However, since there are three bases, up to four runners can be on the field at a time. When all three bases have a runner, the offensive team is said to have the “bases loaded,” meaning the next fair hit or walk will necessarily result in either a run or an out. Having the bases loaded isn't necessarily the most ideal situation for a team, but it's very exciting for the audience.

6
Hit a home run. Sometimes, the batter hits the ball so hard or so well that they are able to run around the entire diamond before getting an out, scoring a run on the first hit. This is called a “home run.” Most home runs are the result of the ball being hit past the fence at the back of the outfield, at which point it's completely out of play and all the fielding team can do is watch.

• A home run hit while the bases are loaded is called a “grand slam.” Obviously, a grand slam is worth four points (one for each runner), and can turn the tide of a difficult game or virtually guarantee victory. Grand slams are exceptionally rare, but very exciting.

7
Drive forward with regular plays. Home runs are fun, but not common enough to be relied upon as a means of winning the game. Instead, focus on learning how far to run after a normal hit. By knowing when to stop and wait, you can stay in play longer and raise your chances of scoring a point. There are three other runs from home plate aside from the home run:

• A single is a run from home plate to first base. It's perhaps the most common type of run, due to its safety and flexibility.
• A double is a run from home plate to second base. Most of the time, a double is a smart choice for medium-distance hits, or hits that leave the fielding team distracted by another player on second or third base.
• A triple is a run from home plate to third base. Triples are uncommon, but they often lead to runs soon after.

8
Try a hit and run play. Good contact hitters (batters who have good control over the ball's direction once hit) can work with a runner on first to make a hole between first and second base, which is normally guarded by the second baseman. The runner on first attempts to steal second right as the pitch is thrown, forcing the second baseman to follow. The batter then drives the ball through the gap into the outfield and takes a single or double.

9
Trade outs for runs with sacrifice plays. There are two types of sacrifice play, wherein a batter accepts an out for the sake of moving a runner on second or third base closer to home so they can score a run.

• A sacrifice bunt is a special type of play where the batter uses the bat to bump the ball from the air without sending it forward. The ball lands just in front of home plate, making it a simple matter for the catcher to retrieve the ball and ground out the batter; however, in the time it takes to do this, another runner may be able to advance to third base or even home plate.
• The very fastest runners can sometimes survive a bunt and make it to first without getting grounded out.
• A sacrifice fly is a pop fly (a high, arcing ball that's very easy to catch) that gives a third baseman time to run home before the runner gets a flyout.

10
Get multiple runners out at once. When the field is set up just right, the fielders may be able to pull off a double play or even a triple play, in which they get two or three outs on a single play. Triple plays are rare, but possible if enough force outs are available. Double plays are more common, and often involve forcing out a runner on first, and then grounding out the batter before they reach first.

• Since three outs causes the teams to switch, a triple play will end the current half of the inning immediately.

11
Understand the infield fly rule. This rule is only invoked by umpires, but it's important to understand. When a batter hits a pop fly that will land in the infield, the umpire can decide it's too easy to catch and invoke the infield fly rule. This causes the batter to be out automatically, and prevents the fielding team from getting an easy triple play by catching the ball and forcing outs at the other bases. In short, it's a rule governing fairness of play, designed to keep things interesting for both sides. Knowing about it now will help when you hear it called later.

12
Keep playing until the correct number of innings is reached. As opposed to basketball and many other team sports, baseball doesn't have a clock or timer, with the exception of little league games. Instead, the game is played until all the innings are completed. Because this can make games drag on for a long time, teams are allowed to have alternates, particularly extra pitchers (called relief pitchers) to keep play fresh from beginning to end. At the end of the last inning, whichever team scored the most runs wins.

• If the teams are tied at the end of the last inning, an extra inning is played. It is very unusual for a baseball game to end in a tie; typically, extra innings are added until one team manages to scrape out an advantage.

Tips

• Be patient. Learning to play baseball takes time and effort; getting any good at it takes even more. Every position on the field is challenging in its own way. If you stick with it, you'll soon find yourself having lots of fun and getting a little better every time you play.
• Learn and practice as much as you can. Friends who play baseball are a great source of information, as are books, guides, and classes. In the end, though, you'll learn the most about baseball from simply playing and getting a feel for it.
• If you're a beginner playing defense, keep your glove near your face, so if a ball is hit or thrown to you, you're less likely to be hurt by it (and more likely to catch it).
• Keep your eye on the ball. Don't hit the ball if you have to turn your head to see it, because it is probably a ball.

Warnings

• Remember to keep your eyes on the ball when you're playing. Baseballs are hard; you don't want to be hit by one.
• Wear protective gear when you play ball. Batting helmets are particularly advised, and catchers should always wear masks, helmets, and chest, knee, shin and foot guards (the same protection that plate umpires wear).

How to Use Coconut Oil on Your Hair and Skin

Using coconut oil is a wonderful natural way to make your hair and skin soft, radiant, and healthy. Coconut oil is natural and contains no harmful chemicals. Toss out your deep conditioners, under-eye creams, and lotions - you don't need them anymore! A jar of unrefined coconut oil is an all-purpose moisturizer great for all skin and hair variations. If you want to learn how to use coconut oil on your hair and skin, keep reading.

Method 1:Conditioning Your Hair

1
Put on old clothes. Coconut oil can get a little drippy, so put on an old t-shirt or drape a towel around your shoulders to prevent it from getting on your nice clothes. It's best to start the conditioning treatment in your bathroom, but you'll be able to move around while you let it soak into your hair for a few hours.

2
Choose a covering for your hair. You can use a plastic shower cap, a large sheet of plastic wrap, or a second old t-shirt to wrap up your hair. Choose something you'll be able to keep in place for several hours, or even overnight.

3
Measure 3 - 5 tablespoons of coconut oil into a bowl. The amount of coconut oil you'll need depends on the length and thickness of your hair. If you have long, thick hair, use 5; if your hair is shorter and thinner, you only need 3 or 4.

• Use unrefined, cold pressed (not refined or solvent extracted). Refined coconut oil has additives and is put through processes that remove some of the natural compounds that make it so healthy for your hair and skin. Unrefined coconut oil is complete in its natural, healthy goodness. Similarly, solvent extracted oil usually contains traces of the hazardous hexane solvent.
• Make sure not to use too much; focus the oil on the middle section and bottom of your hair. If too much is used, especially near the scalp, this can cause the hair to look greasy even when washed out thoroughly. Your hair produces its own natural oils that come from the scalp.

4
Warm up the coconut oil. Avoid the microwave oven as it can destroy the bio-active compounds.

• You can melt coconut oil with your hands. Melt one tablespoon at a time by holding it between your palms and gently rubbing them together. Coconut oil melts with very little heat.
• Heat a small saucepan or bowl on the stove. Remove from flame and pour the oil into the bowl. Let it melt and get warm.
• You can also heat up coconut oil on the stove. Scoop it into a small saucepan and heat it up over low heat until it has just melted.

• You can also heat up coconut oil by running the jar under hot water in a sink until it melts which will only take a few seconds.

5
Rub the coconut oil into your hair. Pour the coconut oil around the top of your head, evenly distributing it on your hair, but you might want to avoid the scalp and roots unless your hair is especially dry. Use your fingers to massage it in and smooth it down your hair shaft all the way to the tips. Continue massaging it into your hair until your hair is completely drenched in coconut oil.

• You can use a comb to help you distribute the oil evenly. Pull it down from your roots to your tips.
• You may just want to condition the ends of your hair, rather than the roots. If that's the case, apply the coconut oil to the ends of your hair instead of pouring it over your scalp. Massage it in with your hands.

6
Pile your hair on your head and cover it. Place your shower cap, plastic wrap, or old t-shirt over your head and wrap it up so that your hair is completely covered.
You can secure your hair with a loose hair band to help it all stay wrapped up on top of your head.

• Use a towel to wipe away drips that might have gotten on your face during the wrapping process.

7
Wait at least 2 hours or overnight. The longer you keep it in your hair, the more conditioned your hair will be. Wait as long as you can manage for best effect.

8
Remove the wrapping and wash your hair. Use a sulfate-free shampoo to wash out the coconut oil. Wash it two or three times, until your hair no longer feels oily.

9
Let your hair dry. Let it air dry or blow it dry to see the effects of the conditioning treatment. It should be soft, shiny and gleaming after this special coconut oil application.

Method 2:Hydrating Your Face

1
Perform your normal face cleansing routine. Whether you lightly splash your face with water, exfoliate it with a brush, or use the oil cleansing method, go ahead and wash your face. Pat it dry with a soft towel, making sure not to pull at your skin - your facial skin is fragile, and a lot of pulling and tugging can cause damage.

2
Rub a little coconut oil around your eyes. Coconut oil is a wonderful undereye and eyelid cream. It helps moisturize that paper-thin skin, improving dark circles and keeping wrinkles at bay. Rub a tiny amount around your eyes, focusing on areas that have wrinkles.

• You probably only need a pea-sized amount for each eye. Take care not to use too much.
• Avoid getting the coconut oil in your eyes. It will thinly coat your eyes, making your vision blurry for a little while!

3
Apply coconut oil sparingly to other dry areas. If you tend to get a very dry patch between your eyebrows, at your temples, or in another spot, apply a small amount of coconut oil there. Rub it in gently using a circular motion.

4
Rub coconut oil on your lips. Unrefined coconut oil will soften and moisturize chapped lips. It's completely edible, so there's no need to worry about ingesting a little. In fact, eating coconut oil is great for your health.

5
Use coconut oil as a face cream. Put it on after a shower or after washing your face. Let it absorb into your skin for 10 minutes before applying makeup. You only need about a dime-sized amount to cover your whole face.

• Some people experience breakouts when they use coconut oil all over. Experiment by using coconut oil on just one patch of skin for a few days. If you like the effect and see no signs of the breakout, use it all over.
• You can use coconut oil for the oil cleansing method, too. Again, be careful if your pores are prone to get clogged. You can cut coconut oil with castor oil if you're worried it will be too rich for your skin.

Method 3:Moisturizing Your Body

1
Apply coconut oil after you've bathed. When your skin is still warm and supple from your bath or shower, the coconut oil will be more readily absorbed.

2
Moisturize your arms with a tablespoon of coconut oil. Scoop out a tablespoon and place it on your arm. Use your opposite hand to rub it in until the coconut oil has melted over your skin. Smooth it on evenly and keep rubbing until it's all gone. Repeat with the other arm.

3
Moisturize your legs with two tablespoons of coconut oil. Scoop out two tablespoons and rub them into your thigh, knee area, lower leg, and foot. Keep rubbing until the scoops have melted into your skin. Repeat with the other leg.

5
Use another tablespoon to moisturize your torso. Rub it over your back, buttocks, stomach, breasts, and anywhere else you'd like to moisturize. You can use coconut oil just as you would any other lotion.

6
Let the coconut oil get absorbed. It might take about 15 minutes for the oil to completely get absorbed into your skin. In the meantime, hang out in your bathroom or put on a bathrobe so you don't get oil on your nice clothes or furniture.

7
Do a bathwater soak. Place about an ounce (shot glass) full of coconut oil in the warm almost hot bath and swish it around the tub to dissolve it. Then soak for a while. Do this for a few weeks about once or twice a week, until you notice your skin is no longer so dry.

Method 4:Using Coconut Oil in Other Ways

1
Use coconut oil as massage oil. You can scent coconut oil with a few drops of essential oil like lavender or rose, then rub it all over yourself or your partner for a sensual homemade massage oil.

2
Use coconut oil to smooth flyaways. Rub a pea-sized amount of coconut oil between your hands and smooth it over your hair to get rid of pesky flyaways and frizz.

3
Use coconut oil to reduce the appearance of scars. Rub a liberal amount of coconut oil over your scar. Repeat twice daily. Over time you'll see the scar reduce in size and blend in with your skin.

4
Use it to treat eczema. Rub coconut oil over dry, inflamed patches of skin to soothe the itchiness and moisturize the area.[1]

5
Use coconut oil to make hair silky. Pour a little coconut oil in a bowl. Heat it to warm to oil stage, then cools it.

• Take a little amount of in your hand.
• Apply it to your scalp. Massage it and tie your hair up.
• Do this process at night and morning wash your hair. Your hair will become silky and strong.

6
Use coconut oil as a cuticle oil. Wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water. Apply coconut oil to cuticles. A pea size amount is enough per hand. Rub into cuticles until fully absorbed.

7
Mix it with dried curry leaves, neem leaves and hibiscus flowers. Heat the coconut oil and ingredients. Allow to cool to room temperature, then apply on the hair scalp by using cotton balls. Give it a light massage and leave in overnight. The next morning, shampoo it. Your hair will be wonderfully shiny and soft.

8

Remove makeup with coconut oil. It acts kind of like a cold cream; just rub it on your face, leave it for a few minutes, then wipe it off with a cloth or tissue and wash your face as normal. Sometimes it works better than those makeup wipes on stubborn eyeliner and mascara.

How to Eat Slowly

Eating slowly is not only a good trick for weight loss, but it's also a way to savor and appreciate your food. Eating slowly is however a habit that needs to be acquired and practiced. To start, make sure you eat in the right environment. Sometimes, a simple change of setting can encourage you to eat more mindfully. From there, work on chewing your food slowly and enjoying each bite. Altering your overall eating habits can also help. Try to be more aware of when you eat and also practice good portion control.

Part 1:Establishing the Right Environment

1
Sit down for each meal. If you're eating on the run, or in front of the TV, you're more likely to scarf your food. You will not pay as close attention to your food in an area filled with distractions. Make a point of sitting down at your kitchen table for every meal.[1]

• Even if it's just you eating, make a point of setting the table. This can make the experience of eating feel more personal and intimate, which may encourage you to eat slowly.
• You can also do something to make meal time feel special. For example, light a candle or set down flowers. You can also cook your own food. If you made a meal yourself, you may be more likely to savor each bite.

2
Try to eat with others. If you're engaged in conversation while eating, this may slow you down some. Whenever possible, try to eat with other people.[2]

• If you live with your family, try to make family meal nights a regular occurrence. Not only will this slow down your eating, it can also increase the feeling of family togetherness.
• If you live with roommates, consider having a dinner with your roommates a few nights a week. Everyone can agree to prepare a dish.
• If you live alone, try inviting friends over for dinner or eating out at a healthy restaurant a few nights a week.

3
Do not do anything else while you eat. If you're watching television, reading, or doing something like a crossword puzzle, you're unlikely to pay attention to your food. This can encourage you to scarf your food down instead of taking the time to enjoy it.[3]

• Eliminate distractions before meal time. Leave your phone in the other room, turn off your laptop, and turn off your television set.
• Do not bring reading materials to the table. Try to make meal time into a ritual where you make a point of appreciating your meal.
• Try to look at your food just before eating. Strive to appreciate the meal in and of itself.

4Get a drink for yourself. Never neglect a beverage when eating. Drinking can help slow the pace of your eating as you'll have to stop to take sips of a drink. Liquid can can also help fill you up, which can prevent overeating. Before sitting down for a meal, make sure to pour yourself a drink.[4]

• It's a good idea to go for low calorie or calorie-free beverages, especially if slow eating is part of a weight loss regimen. Water, diet soda, and seltzer water are good options.

Part 2:Making an Effort to Eat Slowly

1
Chew more. Chewing your food more will help bring your focus back to your meal. It will also help you delay the time between taking a bite and swallowing. Try to chew between 10 to 15 seconds before swallowing.[5]

• It can also help to opt for meals made from foods that are difficult to swallow. For example, try to eat a diet rich in vegetables, fresh fruits, and lean proteins. Softer foods, like casseroles and mashed potatoes, may be harder to chew for prolonged periods.
• Concentrate on the flavor and texture when you chew. Try to be aware of the fact you are eating, and stop to think about how much you're enjoying your food.

2
Sip water between each bite. This is why pouring yourself a drink before a meal can help. Water is especially helpful, as it contains no calories. Between each bite, make sure to take a sip of water. This will slow down the pace of your eating and help fill you up faster.[6]

• It can help to flavor your water to make it more enticing. You can buy flavored water at the supermarket. You can also add pieces of fruit or vegetables to tap water to give it extra flavor.

3
Set down your utensils between bites. This is a small change, but it can really slow down the pace of your eating. If you hold onto your utensils for the entire meal, you will go into shoveling mode. Setting down your utensils between each bite will force you to stop and savor the meal a little more.[7]

• You can also try eating with smaller utensils. This can encourage you to take smaller bites.
• Try switching up the utensils you use. You can, for example, eat with chopsticks for a change to slow down the pace of your eating.

4
Time yourself. If you're really struggling with the pace of your eating, try actually setting a timer. This will challenge you to increase the amount of time you spend eating your food.[8]

• Ideally, it should take you around 20 minutes to finish a meal. Try setting the kitchen clock for 20 minutes. Keep an eye on the clock as you eat, and strive to take 20 minutes to finish your plate.[9]
• You can try to eat your food in servings. For example, eat your salad first, then your side dishes, then your main course.

Part 3:Changing Your Overall Eating Habits

1
Eat every 2 to 3 hours. Waiting long periods between eating can leave you feeling starved. If you're extra hungry, you're more likely to wolf down food. Instead of eating 3 large meals a day, make a point of eating a small meal every 2 to 3 hours.[10]

• Make sure to be aware of calories. If you're eating every 2 to 3 hours, you need to keep the caloric content of your meals lighter than you would when eating 3 meals a day.
• In addition to helping you eat more slowly, this can rev up your metabolism.

2
Do not let yourself get too hungry. If you end up starving by the end of the day, you're likely to binge eat. If your stomach is growling and you're feeling extreme hunger pangs, you've let yourself go too long between meals. When you feel a small amount of hunger building, start planning on what to eat. Strive to have a snack within the next half hour or so.[11]

3
Eat smaller portions. Small portions can force you to savor your food and eat more slowly. Work on being aware of serving sizes. Strive to eat nutrient dense meals in smaller portions.[12][13]

• Make sure to read nutrition labels. This will give you the idea of an actual serving size. A bag of chips may say it's only 150 calories, but the serving size may be half the bag.
• Use small visual cues to determine portion size. A serving of carbohydrates is about the size of a hockey puck. A serving of protein should be no bigger than a deck of cards.[14]

4
Snack on shelled foods. If you feel hungry between meals, have a snack. Stick to something like peanuts or pistachios. If you have to open the shell of a food to eat it, you will have to slow the pace of your eating.[15]

• Be careful, however, when eating nuts. They tend to be high in calories.
• You can also try eating foods that you eat one at a time. For example, snack on blueberries but don't eat them in handfuls. Focus on one blueberry at a time.

Tips

• Practice eating like a gourmet. Get a variety of foods that you love (for example, chocolate, cheese, garlic bread, strawberries, etc.). Cut them into bite-sized pieces and put a sample of each on a plate. As you eat, close your eyes and really taste each bite. Notice the scent, texture and taste of each of the foods. This can encourage you to eat slowly and appreciate your foods more.

Warnings

• Make sure you talk to a doctor before starting any new weight loss program.

How to Make Glitter Pumps

Why wear regular-looking pumps when you can jazz them up to create a pair of glitter pumps that would make Dorothy from Oz proud? However, these babies aren't going to be marching down the Yellow Brick Road. These big girl pumps are going to help you work it out on the dance floor or at a special event. You don’t need to be crafty to create them, merely have a love of all things beautiful and sparkly!

Steps

1
Select a pair of shoes. Pass on using the pair of Chanels for this project––once you've messed with these shoes, they'll be glittered for life. Instead, use a pair of pumps from a second hand or thrift store, or perhaps an old pair in your closet that still has plenty of sole lives to go. Check the material of the shoe, though––leather and patent leather will usually work well. However, suede and similar textures can be difficult for the glue and glitter to adhere to. Fabric outers might work provided the glue used is appropriate for this purpose.

• When selecting the shoes, be discerning. Will that pair really look glitterific or just plain tacky? The style of the shoe is an important factor in the final outcome.
• Remove any stains, stickiness, stickers, etc. before proceeding––the shoe surface should be as clean as possible, and completely dry.

2
Gather your supplies. The glitter is clearly the most important part of this project, so invest your energy in ensuring what you choose is the right size and color. Not all glitter types are made equal––look for the more substantial, larger glitter with lots of sparkles and suitable for use on items that flex, like fabric. In terms of color, you could choose a single color, an already mixed rainbow color, or perhaps bands of different matching colors. When choosing the color, be sure to consider your existing outfits and how the shoes will match to them. After the glitter, the most important supply is the glue––be sure to check it will be suitable for the shoe material and the glitter. Modge Podge is a fairly standard glue that should work well for this project.

• There are many different kinds of glitter out there and different grain/particle sizes. Each one gives it's own unique effect. Some is very coarse having large particles which will give a very bold sparkly effect, while using a fine glitter which has smaller particle size, gives a more subtle effect. If you don't like the effects of coarse glitter in the craft stores or you can't find your perfect color look into body/make-up glitter in the cosmetic section or beauty supply store. This has a similar sparkle effect to fine sugar. Glitter also comes in many countless shapes as well including microbeads and strand/fiber shapes as well.
• Do you want to add anything else, such as charms, diamantes or bows? Don't overdo it, though––the glitter is already a star on its own and additions beyond it could be tacky.
• Other useful tools could include a cup or plastic container for mixing the Modge Podge and a new paintbrush for adding the glitter with. The Modge Podge can be mixed using plastic spoons or bamboo skewers.

3
Set up the workspace. Although lots of fun, this is a messy craft, so be sure to spread out plenty of newspaper, sheet or similar cover over the work surface. If working inside, a tabletop is ideal; if working outside, try the garage floor or a bench, or simply sit outside somewhere comfortable. Because glitter tends to go everywhere, don't go outside if it's windy and it's still important to lay down newspaper to avoid clogging up plants with glitter. Any surface chosen needs to be flat.

4
Prepare the shoes. Glitter should only end up where it's wanted. To this end, use masking tape to cover the sole and tip of the heel completely. Do this in a strip-by-strip way until all of the sole is covered and snip off any pieces that fold onto the shoe itself.

• If the heels come with laces, bows or any other external elements, remove these temporarily to avoid glittering them too.

5
Make up the Modge Podge in the cup. It is suggested to make up approximately 1/4 cup of Modge Podge to begin with. Add as much glitter as you think appropriate––the more added, the more that ends up on the shoe. Mix everything together well; this should take a few minutes.

6
Dip the paintbrush into the Modge Podge/glitter mixture. As with painting, a little goes a long way, so squeeze off any excess before painting. Brush over the first shoe and down the heel in an even layer. Although it brushes on white, don't worry––it will clear quickly. Wipe off any lumps or excess amounts and simply paint back over again. Most of all, aim for an even coat of glitter mix. Set aside to dry.

7
Repeat with the second shoe.

8
When dried, paint a new layer over the first layer for each shoe. You might need to add another layer or two, depending on how the glitter looks to you––judge it as you go.

• While the second layer is still wet, sprinkle additional glitter over the top to enhance the glitter effect––while this is optional, it can really bring out the 3-D element of the glitter and it definitely speeds up the glittering process. Obviously, a lot of the glitter will fall off while doing this, so stick to the covered workspace area. It's enough when you're happy with the effect.
• While still wet, add any other decorative effects you've decided on. If they don't adhere, apply them with a hot glue gun. Remember, though, it's easy to overdo the effect when the glitter is already the star performer.

9
Allow the shoes to dry completely overnight. Choose a well ventilated, cool area to leave the shoes. Keep them out of reach of children, pets and anyone likely to pick them up and put them somewhere else.

10
When fully dry the next day, seal the glitter. Apply a final coat of Modge Podge without glitter mixed in. This will seal both the layer underneath and any added glitter. Again, the Modge Podge will brush on white but soon turn clear. As before, use even strokes and a totally clean paintbrush.

11
Remove the tape from the bottom. Your glitter pumps are finished!

12
Finished.